A Slow Travel Guide To The Giza Pyramids

It was a dusty, smoggy afternoon in 2009 when our tour bus zipped down Salah Salem Street and passed the City of the Dead, Cairo's dense necropolis where thousands of Egyptian families live among the tombs. The streets were quiet and unpaved; the thin minarets rose through the yellowed haze like a dream. In that …

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What Is Slow Travel?

I'm having a dirty martini at 1897 bar, a darkened lounge in New Cairo filled with leather couches and rugs, when a friend asks about my trip to Italy. I've just returned to Egypt after four days in Venice and my memories of the floating city are fresh enough to light up my face. "It …

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What To Do In Cairo: The Mosque Of Ibn Tulun

The city wakes up late on Fridays. There are leisurely breakfasts of baladi bread and cheese before the afternoon prayers, and the streets are blissfully deserted. It takes me twenty minutes to zip across town to Sayeda Zainab, a working-class neighbourhood with lines of workshops and kiosks that are still closed. My Uber driver asks …

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The Value Of Souvenirs From Familiar Places, And 6 Ways To Find Them

We often gather keepsakes from far-away travels, but the more familiar places in our lives are also well worth remembering. I have a collection of souvenirs that remind me of the exotic cities I've seen and the life-changing moments I've had on the road. There's the tin of fish spices from Kaohsiung that reminds me …

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